Emmanuelle’ Esxence Best of Show 2023- Press accreditation on Uermi’s “I smell so good” scarf and Esxence entrance stand – ©Emmanuelle Varron.
Best of Show Esxence 2023 Show stand-outs
As a follow-up to my Esxence trends article and to close our team’s event reports, I present to you my Best of Show.
I fell for fragrances of such obvious and above all timeless beauty that they stood out a bit, immutable to trends. Perfumes that you can imagine still smelling in ten years and still find relavant.There is of Le Galion L’Astre (Rodrigo Flores-Roux), which I reviewed before Esxence 2023 opening on March 31 and which will undoubtedly be in my top 10 for 2023: a real ultra sensual olfactory fireworks and homage to Ava Gardner.
Best of Show Esxence 2023 Show stand-outs: Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul, Parfumeurs du Monde Blanc de Chine, Francesca Dell’Oro Else, Le Galion L’Astre, Jacques Fath L’Iris de Fath – ©Emmanuelle Varron.
Also Jacques Fath L’iris de Fath Eau de Parfum version (Patrice Revillard), which I had the chance to discover a few months ago in Rania Naim’s studio. Is it possible to find this version even more beautiful than the Extrait (Michelyn’s review here). The iris is even more magnified, more realistic, with a peach note that brings a delicious sweetness, without losing its nobility.
One of the perfumes that I was most looking forward to was Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul. Céline Verleure, founder and DA of the brand, told me last year that Marc-Antoine Corticchiato was finalizing a series of three perfumes dedicated to the Sepia collection (the one with bottles dressed in fawn leather). Unlike the first two series created by Bertrand Duchaufour, then Dominique Ropion, “MAC”’s trilogy dedicated to tea will require a little patience, since the three perfumes will be released independently, a few months apart. With Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato pays homage to Lapsang Souchong, a smoked tea with woody notes. Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul opens with great delicacy, patiently unveiling the famous smoky notes of this majestic tea associated with vetiver and osmanthus with delicious apricot notes. The seaweed absolute brings a mineral facet of a beautiful contrast, illuminated by jasmine and rose. I have only one desire: to discover Marc-Antoine Corticchiato two other creations!
I had the chance to smell Parfumeurs du Monde Blanc de Chine (Patrice Revillard) at a Jovoy event a few weeks ago, and had found wonderful. At Esxence 2023, it was very slightly modified at the (perfectionist) perfumer’s initiative. Flawless. A solar gardenia, a bit juicy (thanks osmanthus), carried by jasmine, orange blossom and ylang-ylang, then warmed by sandalwood, opoponax, benzoin and styrax. 100{2ac9033caf61aa83cf45584f992fcbdbe657ee6f770037f39c3ded45073822b8} natural, an unprecedented exercise for Patrice Revillard, who also won over Thierry Bernard, founder of Parfumeurs du Monde: “It is perfect.”
I also liked Francesca Dell’Oro Else (Michele Marin), a tribute perfume to Arthur Schnitzler’s new Miss Else. Even before identifying the notes, you can smell a universe of drama and passion, Eros and Thanatos, which shines through. Absolutely decadent, Francesca Dell’Oro Else plays the card of sensuality without barriers: a floral bouquet with vintage accents (rose, carnation, champaca, iris, lily of the valley, heliotrope) embellished with cassia, patchouli and saxony moss. An ode to the 19th century and its many artistic currents that can be admired in museums.
Best of Show Esxence 2023 Indie Innovations
Indie innovations: Ellen Dahlgren The Ruler, Eau de Boujee Verdant, OHTOP Paranoïaque, Bel Rebel …& the pea, Toskovat Génération Godard and David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi, the brand founder and perfumer – ©Emmanuelle Varron.
Here are some new brands and fragrances not necessarily following current trends. Let’s talk about Ellen Dahlgren, whose work I had discovered through her superb Parfumeurs du Monde Tjärn. The Swedish perfumer presented two outstanding creations. My Favorite is Ellen Dahlgren The Ruler which, on paper, could seem like a classic composition. But working on the balance between raw materials really makes the difference, with juicy, green and tangy rhubarb. Myrrh, tonka bean and rose create an elegant and refined facet, with patchouli, benzoin and vanilla providing a comforting warmth in the background.
I also had the chance (thank you Pep!) to discover Eau de Boujee, a collection created by Pia Long and Nick Gilbert. At Esxence 2023, I fell in love with Eau de Boujee Verdant, an ode to nature that reclaims its rights in this world invaded by concrete. Among the raw materials that stand out, a cactus accord, tomato leaf, Timut pepper and a facet of intense white flowers with a hint of a “concrete” accord that I vaguely perceive… Of course, as nature wins! Then, once back in Paris, I rediscovered Eau de Boujee Gilded, a multifaceted, warm, bewitching and spicy incense where myrrh, beeswax, leather, civet, labdanum… and a “gold” accord also coexist. A papal, introspective perfume… superb!
Another curiosity, the Franco-Korean brand OHTOP and especially OHTOP Paranoïaque (Roméo Oh and Carbonnel) where antagonisms are omnipresent in the composition, and disconcerting on the skin: the brand reveals notes of grapefruit, blackcurrant, coriander, patchouli and amber. My nose would like to add the galbanum as its raw and earthy aspect is present. Very conceptual on blotter, OhTop Paranoïaque proves to be “easier” to wear on the skin.
In line with my with love of vegetable notes last year, I naturally loved Bel Rebel … & the pea (Jean-Christophe Hérault). A crunchy green pea, impressively realistic, which gradually blends into the magnolia and retains all its originality and naturalness thanks to a hint of lavender. Cedar brings structure to this slightly crazy fragrance, which envelops the skin over the hours with a good dose of musk. The brand’s blotters, rather short and wide and pierced with multitudes of tiny holes, were a “must-see”.
This is without a doubt my big favorite of Essence 2023: Toskovat’, a Romanian brand, which I had spotted in mid-March on Instagram thanks to Cristian Marianciuc, our former contributor. At booth S11, I discovered David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi, a young artist who got into perfume without any training, creating on instinct, with his memory as his muse. David-Lev claims the right to nostalgia, without seeking a conventional olfactory harmony… quite the contrary! Several of his fragrances from the “Extrait de mémoire” collection impressed me, even stunned me. My Favorite is Toskovat’ Génération Godard, a lightly indulgent popcorn with tobacco and musk notes, paying homage to the atmosphere of movie theaters and, of course, to the illustrious Swiss director Jean-Luc Godard. Not to forget Toskovat’ F2, a chypre revisited in a 2023 version, again stunning.
Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor and Paris Brand Ambassador
Le Galion L’Astre 100 ml bottle designed by Pierre and Jules Dinand – ©Le Galion
We have a 100 ml bottle of Le Galion L’Astre for one registered reader in USA, UK and EU. YOU MUST REGISTER for one registered reader in USA, UK and EU. To be eligible, please tell us what you enjoyed about Emmanuelle’s “Best of Show Esxence 2023 Part 2”, the fragrance you would love to try and where you live. Draw closes 04/23/2023.
Emmanuelle’s Best of Show Esxence Part1 here
Please read Karl’s Best of Show Esxence 2023 Part 1 here and Part 2 here
Please read Nicoleta’s Best of Show Esxence 2023 here
Please read Danu’s Best of Show Esxence 2023 here
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