Estée Lauder Private Collection Legacy bottle, wiki
“What you do is your history. What you set in motion in your legacy.” – Leonard Sweet
1973 Estée Lauder Private Collection advertisement by Estée Lauder, wiki
Estée Lauder’s 1973 release of Private Collection by Vincent Marcello presented women with a green-toned floral that would be at home on any country estate. As classic as hedgerows in the garden, Private Collection’s verdancy was ornamented with soapy aldehydes and rests on a dry chypre platform. Estée Lauder created a refined and iconic bouquet that set the standard for many ladies who lunch.
Photo courtesy of Estee Lauder
Traveling forward to 2024, Estée Lauder has released the Legacy Collection with the help of renowned perfume editor, Frédéric Malle. Five of Estée Lauder’s most admired iconic scents are being celebrated and reimagined for this century. Malle has taken on the task of restoring these fragrant gems for a contemporary wearer. Focusing on high-quality ingredients has been a main goal of the 2024 Legacy editions of Azurée, Estée, Knowing, White Linen, and my personal favorite: Private Collection. Anne Flipo, Carlos Benaim and Bruno Jovanovic are the perfumers who have been enlisted in this historic project.
Perfumer Anne Flipo, wiki (who composed 2021’s Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Synthetic Jungle
Estée Lauder Private Collection Legacy has been re-orchestrated by perfumer Anne Flipo. A bright green and aromatic opening accord of basil, tarragon and galbanum brings a bitter herbal twist that enlivens the scent experience. The Legacy version is less powdery and more herbal and aldehydic, sparkling and edged with green. Still stately and reserved, Anne Filipo brings out the freshness of the beginning. Clean jasmine continues the brightness into the heart, crisp as starched and pressed linen. Estée Lauder Private Collection Legacy is a handsome dose of garden green, perhaps better manicured, but still timeless.
With time Estée Lauder Private Collection Legacy settles into a sweet green chypre base with oakmoss, a sliver of patchouli, and musk. Here I find the biggest difference between the two versions, as the Legacy bottle uses musks to soften the dry down rather than the original’s powdery sweetness. Anne Flipo’s contemporary version brings us outside and into the garden (rather than the original’s gazing out an open window from the dressing table). Modern musks enhance the verdant richness of this iconic fragrance and present a clean bright classic for a new century.
Notes: basil, tarragon, galbanum, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli, musk
Disclaimer: Bottle my own; opinions my own
~ Rachel K. Ng, Senior Contributor
Estée Lauder Azurée 1969, a classic chypre revisited here
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