Esxence 2024 was big – especially compared to the very first edition in 2009. It was so big that on the first day, I got lost trying to get out, and it took me 45 minutes of wandering about. My sense of direction has never been good. I made sure to pick up a map on my way out!
So, in alphabetical order, here are a bunch of new discoveries and interesting sniffs I found in Milan this year.
Art Meets Art
Art Meets Art pairs famous perfumers with famous tunes, challenging them to create a scent inspired by that tune.
Christophe Raynaud takes the challenge of translating into a perfume, Marvin Gaye singing Sexual Healing and Sara Montiel’s Besame Mucho; Alberto Morillas took on Madonna’s Like a Virgin, saying he “tried to capture the essence of who she was at this point in her life and the energy surrounding the song and era.” ; Fabrice Pellegrin also took on ‘Like a Virgin‘, but an ‘unplugged version’. Finally, Frank Voelkl translated Jeff Buckley’s Lilac Wine.
Bel Rebel
Bel Rebel had an outstanding looking display, mirroring their funky bottles. You can read about their latest …& A Pea, here.
Bois 1920
Bois 1920 were showing their newest fragrance, Gioco all’Alba – “Capturing the soul of an ancient historic Florentine pub at dawn, when the lights go out and the scent of memories comes alive. The intensity of the accord of Whisky, Leather, and Tobacco evokes a night of party and excess around a gaming table, when the last laughs and secrets exchanged between friends blend in the air.”
Boujee Bougies
Nick Gilbert and Pia Long showed us their latest fragrance, Infleurno. Read more here.
Electimuss
Electimuss showed their latest, Cupid’s Kiss and also teased their next scent based on ginger called ‘Spiced Arno’, which will launch in June.
Emil Élise
German fragrance house, Emil Élise, were showing Twisted Sin – a new unisex fragrance with notes of apple, rum, bergamot, amber, and cinnamon.
The brand launched in 2022, with Bathing in a Daydream, Dancing on Goosebumps, Eating Wherever, Going Bang, Hangover Meditation and Painting it Sweet. These were joined by Melting Lust in 2023.
Experimental Perfume Club
London-based Experimental Perfume Club was founded by Emmanuelle Moeglin in 2016. Originally starting out in East London’s Dalston, the brand now has a store in Covent Garden.
EPC sell two collections: Essential – a range of unisex fragrances that are designed to be worn alone or to be blended together to create your own signature scent; and Signature Blends, whic are scents created by using combinations from their Essentials collection.
EPC sell a creation set, which features fragrances from the Essentials range, which can either be used to create a fragrance from their Signature Blends, or you can experiment (hence the name) and create your own.
Freeshape Milano
Freeshape launched in 2022 with six fragrances: Ama, Om, Akasha, 11:11, Eywa, and Maha. Their latest, Eden, is subtitled “The Absolute Happiness” and features notes of Sweet Orange, Bergamot, Eden Fruity Accord, Jasmine, Bulgarian Rose, Lily of the Valley, Violet, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood, Amber, and Musk.
Fugazzi
Fugazzi had turned their stand into what looked like a swimming pool, with towels and a ladder.
Hiram Green
Hiram Green showed us his latest, Philtre, which launched earlier this year. We were trying to remember when we last met, and I thought it might have been when he had his Scent Systems shop in London. We decided it must have been since then, as Hiram pointed out that “that was twenty years ago”. Then we both felt old.
Mark Buxton
Mark Buxton was showing his Freedom Collection (or ‘blue’ collection, as Mark referred to it as) which launched in 2021. The most recent addition is Mi Confesion from 2023– inspired by an old British bar, with notes of cherry blossom, tobacco, rum, and sandalwood.
Metascent
Founded in Australia in 2017 by Yen Huynh and Janelle Donnelly, Metascent launched a new collection at Esxence – Australian Botanicals.
Incorporating natural raw materials, each fragrance has been designed to evoke the ancient origins of Gondwana land. Fire Banksia blends Australian mandarin with myrrh and jasmine, Waratah Sunset is an aromatic tale of eucalyptus, osmanthus and amber, Moreton Bay Fig is a subtle blend of bergamot, cardamom, fig and tonka bean. Snow Gum is like the breath of winter with Australian anise myrtle, white gardenia and black agarwood, Desert Pea Mirage is a blend of black pepper, wild rose, leather and sandalwood and Wildflowers & Acacia is a symphony of Australian florals and lemon myrtle with smooth Buddha wood notes.
Masque Milano
Masque Milano have added some new fragrances to their Le Donne di Masque line, which originally launched in 2020: Catherine by Caroline Dumur, Diana by Vanina Muracciole, and Vaiana by Mackenzie Reilly.
OHTOP
OHTOP released a new trio of scents – Októ, Air Oud, and Half Moon – read more here.
Olfactive Studio
Olfactive Studio launched their latest Collection Feminite, featuring three fragrances by Cecile Zarokian — read more in this article here.
Olfacto
Olfacto is a brand founded in Côte d’Ivoire by Patrick Amouye in 2018, and has a range of 11 fragrances. (Grigio Nero, Formule Secrète, Blasphème, Olfacto Addicto, Femina Negra, My Vetyver, Karo Karoundé, Akwa Negra, Bois Sacrés, Eau Fétiche and Outre Noir) The company uses many ingredients found in Côte d’Ivoire as well as the rest of Africa. A highlight for me was Olfacto Addicto, which features notes of bergamot, rose and musk.
L’Osmothèque
Versailles-based L’Osmothèque is a museum of perfume founded by Jean Kerleo in 1990. It’s aim is to document and archive the history of perfumery.
At Esxence the museum was showing a collection of original versions of classic perfumes, recreated using their original formulas. The earliest fragrance available to smell was ‘Parfum Royal’ from the 1st Century, which we know about due the writings of Pliny the Elder. More familiar fragrances available to smell in their original formulas were Eau de la Reine de Hongrie (1370), Eau de Lubin (1798), English Lavender (Yardley, 1873), Fougère Royale (Houbigant, 1884), L’Origan (Coty, 1905), Le Fruit Défendu (Rosine, 1914), Mitsouko (Guerlain, 1919), Tabac Blond (Caron, 1919), No. 6 (Chanel, 1921), Joy (jean Patou, 1935), Vent Vert (Balmain, 1945), Pino Silvestre (Vidal, 1955), Vetiver (Carven, 1957), Norell (Norell, 1970), Diorella (Dior, 1972) and Magie Noire (Lancôme, 1978)
Perroy Parfum
Perroy is a new line described as “a range of positive perfumes. Built like a palette of moods, each Perroy juice is a concentrate of emotions with a contagious pop spirit.”
Launching in April this year, the collection consists of Ivory Sky, Tangerine Pearl, Azure Blush, Mahogany Sun, Pink Fire, Blond Purple, Blue Forest and Gold Fawn.
Rosendo Mateo
This Spanish niche perfume house was founded by the late Rosendo Mateu, alongside his son Joan in 2014. Mateo Snr began his life in perfumery working at Puig at the age of 15 and has been responsible for helping create classic fragrances such as 212 Men, Premiere Jour and XS.
The latest fragrance is 8, which features top notes of apple, pineapple and pear, middle notes are amber, patchouli, cinnamon and bulgarian rose and base notes of vetiver, cedar wood and vanilla.
Sarah Baker
Sarah Baker was very busy every time I walked past her stand, but we did get to wave at each other. You can learn more about Peach’s Revenge, her latest fragrance, here.
Step Aboard
Step Aboard is a Milanese perfume house founded by Giorgiana Mocanu. You can read more about their latest Chicago collection here.
Steve Martin Paris
I’ll admit, I didn’t try these but took a photo to remind me to look up if this was the same Steve Martin’s of Father of the Bride and Only Murders in the Building fame. Turns out it’s not.
Teatro Fragranze Uniche
As you might guess from the picture, Teatro’s latest may well be based on cherries. And you’d be correct. Ceresia is “the reflection of an olfactory journey inspired by the lightness and freshness. Its fruity bouquet rises from the intertwining of cherry and bergamot, almond milk and fig leaves, giving life to a succulent, fresh and playful symphony.”
As well as a perfume, the scent is available as a candle, reed diffuser, fabric spray and room spray.
Vallense
Vallense is a new brand founded by William Borrell. Borrell is a distiller, and founded the cocktail bar Ladies & Gentlemen in London’s Kentish Town (so, named as it is housed in a former public toilet)
Borrell has created three fragrances with the assistance of perfumer, Pia Long: Spirit, Source and Sun. All three fragrances are built around a custom designed musk accord, and feature a note of Holy Grass (aka Bison Grass)
I wish I’d had the chance to smell some more scents, I reckon I got to try about 5% of what was there. If you managed to visit, let us know in the comments what new finds you discovered!