Danu at Esxence Art of Perfumery Event 2023
I am no stranger to the Esxence Art of Perfumery Event held every year in Milan, lately at the MiCo Milan Congress Centre, growing every year and extending even within its newer venue of the last 2 years. I have been kindly asked by Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief to give my thoughts and impressions along with the team.
MiCo venue Esxence Art of Perfumery Event 2023 – Danu Seith-Fyr
The Esxence Art of Perfumery Event has grown so very much that it is not possible to see and smell everything nor to attend all the conferences and workshops, but I did manage to cover quite a lot, Esxence to me is all about people too, people who share this passion and this artistry. Firstly, it was my pleasure to connect with my fellows from ÇaFleureBon, some of whom I had met before and some to meet for the first time. Yet nothing truly prepares you for what is to come as you enter the fair and pause at the Esxence logo for the obligatory photograph, it is akin to what one could imagine entering another dimension, one filled with noise, colour, hive-like activity and of course the overwhelming overdose of scents in the air. One understands, at the end of each day with tired feet and overexposed nose yet with a euphoria that lifts one, so long as you are not agoraphobic.
Manos Gerakinis and Citrine, Alessandra – Perris Monte Carlo with Vanille de Tahiti Extrait, Aromatorio Meo Fusciuni and Perfumer Michele Marin both Art and Olfaction Awards Finalists, Abime – Maison Violet. Photo Danu Esxence Art of Perfumery Event photos Danu
A world apart filled with extraordinary people pulling off feats of magic and conjuring the impossible. Passion is their lifeblood, and it is evident everywhere in this microcosmic world. It made me grateful to belong to that happy band of writers that still translates the beauty of perfume into a literary experience, something that technology cannot replicate, ÇaFleureBon is one of those bastions dedicated to writing of the best quality and has been a media partner of Esxence since 2010.
Ted Young-Ing from Aer Scents, Aer Scents, Pissara Umavijani – Parfums Dusita, Parfumeurs de Monde – Albedo, Uermi – 70’s Mood, Rubini – Odenaturae. at the Esxence Art of Perfumery Event 2023
Let’s begin in the crowded halls of the main exhibition, certain highlights stand out, Citrine by Manos Gerakinis Parfums, a limited edition, only 25 per year and a project I had been involved with, an adorned oud resplendent and dripping in sensual finery plus a little secret squirrel meeting of future projects. Manos is also a Fragrance Foundation UK finalist with Methexis.
A reunion with Atelier Materi, always consistently creating perfumes of quality and gifting us new perspectives on components, this time with Cuir Nilam, baby soft suede leather of the finest quality gilding a chic patchouli.
If you thought that Vanille de Tahiti from Perris Monte Carlo was the definitive vanilla, think again there is a new Vanille de Taihiti Extrait version, it is deeply seductive and so very addictive.
Meo Fusciuni (Guiseppe) was his beautiful self, and I was delighted to be able to celebrate with him and others his nomination as a finalist for the Art and Olfaction Awards for Encore du Temps.
I was also incredibly pleased to reconnect with Ted Young-Ing from AerScents, it was full circle from my very first perfume fair, Pitti Fragranze and I am still so very impressed, further investigations are afoot, AER05 – Black and White Pepper and AER02 – Cade and Frankincense still capture me, with their naturalness and purity of expression, a house worth looking into.
Cherigan Paris, Jean-Michel Duriez and Carlotha Ray, Welton London
Finally getting my nose on Abime from Violet Paris,( just reviewed on Çafleurebon by Senior Editor Lauryn Beer here) glorious concoction of all I love, resinous and spiced elemi, to delight on skin, also to meet finally the founders walking the perfectly balanced line between the legacy of a heritage perfume house and the present.
Parfums Dusita and dear Pissara released Rosarine, a sumptuous combination of roses that is an essence of Parisian effortless style and grace. Along with wonderful news for Parfums Dusita, news that made me extremely happy indeed.
Parfumeurs de Monde – an intriguing new all-natural perfume, Albedo – created by Le Sourceur, Stephane Piquart, intriguingly it is constructed in reverse pyramid, base down and is deeply beautiful to wear, full of the raw materials that Stephane is known for, Vanille Vert, Bushmans Candle and Fire Tree to name a few.
Uermi took us flowers in hand hallucinating back to the 70’s with 70’s Mood, a revitalized Patchouli but not like you remember it, certainly you may have to don your flared trousers and psychedelic top but it’s not just nostalgia, it has a cleanly sharp modernity too.
Finally, before I move onto the new revelations, I must mention Rubini and Andrea, always a warm embrace and finally I was able to discover the completed Odenaturae, which I had first smelt in development last Esxence Art of Perfumery event, it is as its name suggests a full bow to nature, fully expressive of a summer’s day in Italy, a pastoral romp, warming hay and solar caress.
The Jester and The Ruler – Ellen Dahlgren Perfumes; Jonathon Dufour – Spiritum Perfume, Oman Luxury Collection, Ojar
First encounters were myriad and some of note were Cherigan, exploring the reinvigoration of this house with Sophie Gabriel, intrigued by the history and provenance, the recreation of a line worthy of the name and especially for me a soon to be launched addition to Les Iconiques Collection – Bleu Imperiale, a chypre, elegant and absolute class, it will be a prestige edition with a bottle worthy of its heritage.
It was a pleasure to meet and discuss at length with Parfumeur Jean-Michel Duriez at the Carlotha Ray booth, a new brand to me that combines an ethical approach to vegan perfumery. Palo Santo and Patchouli Vert stood out for me with its bright and green aspects indeed the whole collection is extremely light and wearable.
Welton London, (reviewed by Karl here) was another unknown brand to me that was on my list to visit, again it was a pleasure to explore the collection with Founders Jean-Paul and Aline, so many beautifully crafted perfumes to choose from but first loves are from the Talisman Extrait Collection – Lucky Charm with its elemi toned with frankincense and Narcotic Elixir, a devastating trail of spices and liquor like intoxication, aptly named.
Ellen Dahlgren, a Swedish perfumer released her two perfumes, The Jester and The Ruler, almost defying description as one resides in the other, avant-garde perfumery at its best. The Jester with a playful darkness and The Ruler, serious overtones and hidden madness, I shall explore further.
Jonathon Dufour from Spiritum Paris is an arresting young man of some depth, his collection is exciting to explore, and I was immediately drawn to 4 – Builder of Future, a deftly woven concoction of powerful notes all settled on a foundation of caramel, chocolate, ambergris and other morsels, composed by Bertrand Duchaufour (full reviews of the brand by Emmanuelle Varron)
Middle Eastern brands were in great attendance this year highlighting a resurgence from this region, Amouage, of course, the vanguard. I had met the founders of Oman Luxury in Cannes last year and it was a pleasure to meet them again, even briefly. Their collection is of a very high quality with such interesting background to their formulas and raw materials. Dejan is one that stands out, a smoky rose produced high in a certain region in Oman, rose petals over pomegranate wood and extracted, it is unique and has a longevity that is outstanding. Certainly, Dejan, Angham and Serenity will join my own collection.
Ojar was another brand that had been on my list to investigate ever since a friend gifted me a few samples, a woman led business it has a gentle and approachable style, the feminine touch perhaps. I received such an open, warm reception and this has marked them out for me as it’s not just about the perfumes but the people who create them. There is a refined elegance in their approach to business and in their perfumes and attars which can be worn together or separately. Eagle – Eyed Stranger would be my first pick of many, a deep frankincense enrobed in birch and earthiness.
L’Osmotheque Exhibition, Art and Olfaction Awards Finalists 2023, Annick Le Guerer.
Happenings around and within Esxence included a fabulous exhibition by the L’Osmotheque – A Tribute to Italy and its Perfumes, such a voyage of discovery from reinterpreted Roman formulas through the centuries to the present day and Laboratorio Olfattivo – Bergamotto Viaggio.
The announcement of the Finalists for the 2023 Art and Olfaction Awards to be held on May 11th in Los Angeles, was made by Saskia Wilson- Brown, Spyros Drosopoulos and Chi Wai Tang an occasion for celebration with friends and colleagues, Bravo to all the finalists and honorable mentions. ÇaFleureBon article listing all Finalists here.
A wonderful book presentation, Perfume and the Voice, in French which was a good test for me, by author Annick Le Guerer, Historian, Anthropologist and Philosopher, speaking at length about the similarities and synesthesia, mentioning the path of Filippo Sorcinelli, a musical talent from a very young age, now also creating perfumes.
Le Jardin Retrouve with Michel Gutsatz, Senior Editor CaFleureBon Karl Topham, Clara Feder and Maxence Moutte, Osmanthus Liu Yuan with amazing miniature worlds by former CaFleureBon writer Cristian Marianciuc. Filippo Sorcinelli new store opening in Milan and the introduction at dinner of Haec Dies Near the Esxence Art of Perfumery Event 2023
I was grateful to be able to attend the launch party of the new perfume from Le Jardin Retrouve, a sumptuous evening with gathered friends in a distinctly Chinese tinted garden, lacquer red walls and lush greenery accompanied Michel and Clara along with perfumer Maxence Moutte as they introduced us to Osmanthe Liu Yuan, it really is the most infectiously joyful perfume I have encountered, an effervescent Osmanthus gathered in a cornucopia of fruits and musk.
Thomas de Monaco, LilaNur, Venezia1920 and Ormonde Jayne
One of the highlights for me were the many meetings that took place, by invitation in private locations, this gave a much more intimate experience and afforded all involved the time and peace to fully explore. This is an option that is being taken by many of the more well-known brands and by those who find the crowded halls not to their liking. Within this format I was able to meet and explore with Thomas de Monaco, a warm and quietly fascinating man, not only to connect with his current collection of three perfumes, of which Eau Cœur(Michelyn’s Best perfume of 2022 and Grand Beau gather my attention but also to have a preview of three upcoming releases, very, very interesting.
I also met with Paul Austin from LilaNur Parfums,(Ida Meister’s brand overview and reviews here) this was one of those serendipitous moments where the brand ethos and origins as a luxury Indian brand met with my own personal life experiences, their collection of perfumes reflecting Indian culture and supporting local growers were exquisite and can be paired with equally gorgeous attars, my personal favourites, Malli Insolite, Davana Cedre (reviewed by Lauryn Beer here) and the sublime Vetiver Mousson. LiaNur Rajni Nocturne is a Fragrance Foundation UK Award Finalist.
Venezia1920 also had outside meetings at the iconic Principe di Savoie, near the old Esxence venue, Gianluca Zin and Paola received us in gracious surroundings and proceeded to introduce the three new perfumes of the exclusively Venetian inspired collection. All three crafted by perfumer and friend Roberto Dario, Peggy (Guggenheim) richly elegant, Harrys (iconic bar), spiced indulgence and smoky woods and Mosaic (St Marks) the meeting place of all Venice, opulence defined.
A welcome meeting also with Linda Pilkington from Ormonde Jayne always a pleasure to catch up, a wonderful tour of the Montebaco collection, Montebaco Flor an immense gardenia created for Fortnum and Mason, Montebaco Cuba a lively vibrant citrus created for Selfridges and Montebaco Ivoire delicately spiced patchouli created for Harrods, there was also a preview of an upcoming release which really took my attention.
Finally, it was with great pleasure that I was invited to attend two events to celebrate the launching of two new perfumes from Filippo Sorcinelli (my review of Pioggia Moderata) plus the opening of his new store in Milan. Firstly, a concert to introduce the latest addition to the Extrait de Musique collection, Trompette 8 another feature of the organ, it is an incense with deep and profound vibrations from Labdanum and Black Pepper, Cedar and Elemi. The other very poignant release was introduced at a private dinner at Immorale ose restaurant where the meal was paired with the perfume, explored amongst friends. Haec Dies is an exceptional perfume created with the story of Easter and the shock and surprise as the Magdalene and accompanying women realise the stone of Christs tomb has been rolled open, Haec Dies captures this moment as a rare combination of Myrrh and Aloe oils is dropped in their astonishment. A sacred moment captured in a perfume of devotion.
I am grateful to all those brands, artisan perfumers and creators who continue to believe wholeheartedly in the power of the written word, humans have been writing for millennia and words will continue to be a medium for the transference of soul touching emotion.
Danu Seith- Fyr, Guest Contributor
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